REDEFINING THE IMAGE: A STUDY ON THE PERSONALITY TRAITS OF CONTEMPORARY BIG WAVE SURFERS

Abstract

In recent years, Big Wave surfing has garnered unprecedented attention, with remarkable swells sweeping across the world's most renowned surf spots, including Mavericks, Waimea Bay, Peahi/Jaws, and Nazare. This surge in popularity can be attributed to the widespread coverage Big Wave surfing receives on both social and traditional media platforms. On social media, numerous accounts are dedicated to showcasing the daring feats of big wave surfers, the challenging surf spots they conquer, and the specialized equipment and training they employ. While some of this content results from sponsor obligations, it also garners substantial public interest, leading to thousands of annual posts and millions of likes. This spotlight is transforming a sport that had largely remained on the fringes for decades. Traditional media outlets are equally attuned to this phenomenon, producing a wealth of content that caters to a seemingly insatiable audience. From ESPN to nightly network news and streaming platforms like HBO Max's "100-Foot Wave" and Red Bull's "Life of Kai," Big Wave surfing has become a mainstream fascination. Historically, Big Wave surfers were often perceived as renegade thrill-seekers who either couldn't make it on the professional surfing tour or shied away from the limelight. They were tagged with descriptors like loner, introvert, and stoner. This study delves into the personalities of modern-day big wave surfers, aiming to determine if they align with athletes in other disciplines or if the sport's old stereotypes still hold true.